Training for Beginners: Part 1

A topic not so often addressed is "Training for Beginnners". Most commonly, the literature is centred around improving in the "upper grades". That is, those climbing at or above grade 24-25. To train at this level requires more then just dedication but tendons of steel only accumulated after years of climbing. Such programs are in no way suited to the beginner climber. Instead the newby is told "just go and do some climbing, you will get better". But what about the newby who is passionate and aspirational? The one who wants to climb the hard grades but get there in the quickest, most efficient and injury free way? The one who does not want to waste time? For those of you who fit this requisit, read on. This is what I would do if I had my time again:

1. Go and get some professional instruction: Head to your local climbing gym, do they have an introductory squad? Do they offer lessons or technique courses? Enrol in these. Practice what they teach you on easy climbs, perfecting each and every move from flagging, to back stepping, clipping and reading climbs. Developing a large body of moves is integral to making smooth ascents. If you can't afford to do this buy a book, or head to YouTube, there are many videos which describe a whole wealth of techniques.
2. Focus on your weaknesses: Being a strong all round climber requires an even balance of all styles and all moves. It's no good being the dyno king if you can't grip a crimp or hang from a sloper. Some of the best routes will have a mix of all these techniques, in order to "send" them you will need to be proficient in them all. Ask yourself, what am I good at? What am I bad at? Focus your sessions on your weaknesses, reward yourself with your strengths.
3. Engage in supplimentary training: Often over looked but vital to reduce the chance of injury in the long run. Optimise your body composition with aerobic exercise, core stability training and stretching. A gentle weight training program designed to balance out those 'unused' muscles will also go a very long way to improving your performance
4. Finally, fuel up like an athlete: Accept you are now a sports person and must eat, sleep and drink like one. A clean and nutritious diet, lots of sleep, plenty of rest days and limited alcohol consumption.

Follow these and you are sure to make significant progress.


Happy training!