Yes, Yes, Another Chris Sharma Video... :-)

Hello readers, Chris Sharma is BACK, back in Ceuse!! Well at least that's what the title of the video says...

Enjoy and happy climbing :-)

Chris Sharma - BACK in Céüse - Sport climbing and bolting in France from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.

Climb Like Chris Sharma....Let Go!!

The video below is the second in a series produced by Rock and Ice in collaboration with Chris Sharma. Chris is known for pushing the limits of sport climbing to grades previously thought impossible, and I might add, from a very young age.

He is also famously known for saying "climbing is all mental". Whilst there might be some jest in there, for the most part, it really does ring true. Imagine if you could climb entirely without fear? Or perhaps irrational fear? How far could you push your limit??

A common approach to climbing is that to pull each move one requires a certain degree of strength. That strength gives confirmation of our ability to do the move. We are looking for security... However, climbing at your ABSOLUTE limit requires much more than that. It is not secure, it is not definite, you are completely in the dark as to whether or not you will pull the move.

Letting go of our fears and apprehensions is the ONLY way to get the most out of your current physical state. Do you want to get stronger or do you want to get better?

Enjoy and happy climbing :-)

Climb Like Chris Sharma: Limits and Fears from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.

Increasing Time Until Fatigue - Part 1

Exercise Order Matters!!!

It has been well documented that large, compound movements, involving multiple muscles over a number of joints stimulate the release of growth hormones acutely (ie dead lifts). Conversely, isolated movements, involving small muscles across a single joint (such as the bicep curl) have very little effect on growth hormone release. The practical relevance of this observation is that large compound movements performed prior to isolated movements will result in far greater growth and development of the isolated muscle; eg bicep.


In rock climbing, the number one predictor of climbing performance is time until fatigue. That is, the time taken for the forearm muscles to become fully fatigued and unable to grasp the holds. Technique, body fat percentage, age, nutritional status, anthropometric measurements etc all play factors in this equation, however, all factors the same, time until fatigue is the number one determinant.

Therefore, increasing the time until fatigue will, assuming all factors are the same, have greatest effect on your climbing ability…

Increasing Time Until Fatigue - Overview

In a previous article, which can be found HERE I made mention to the determinants of climbing performance. It was determined that whilst climbing was an increadibly complex sport, time until fatigue was the only true predictor of climbing performance. That is not to say that it is not appropriate to train other facets of your climbing, in fact the opposite was true, but, keeping all things equal, time until fatigue is the only true predictor of ability.

In following with the theme I have decided to produce a series of articles which focus predmoninantly on increasing time until fatigue...

Part one can be found HERE

Park Life - Bouldering in Yosemite

Whilst browsing Vimeo this afternoon I stumbled across this video titled "Park Life - Bouldering in Yosemite". A Louder Than Eleven Production it documents the journey of nine climbers who spend two weeks in bouldering the granite of the valley. Whilst the concept is a little cliche it is beautifully composed and well worth taking 30 minutes out of your day. I'll leave the jibber jabber to the climbers and let you get on to watching

Happy climbing :-)

Park Life - Yosemite Bouldering from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.

The El Cap Challenge for 2012!!!

I know, I know. I hear what you’re saying. You can hardly believe it! The opportunity to do it all over again, or the chance to do it for the first time cos you were slow off the blocks last year!




El Cap Challenge Returns!

30th November, 2012, Bayside Rock

More details soon but start preparing your teams and your costumes now.

http://www.elcapchallenge.com/

Climbing inspired costumes are almost compulsory – besides there will be great prizes for the best dressed! Why wouldn’t you? Your chance to be Royal Robbins or Alex Honnold for just once!

Funds raised go to CliffCare Victoria

Petzl Roc Trip - China 2011

For those of you who are yet to see it, or maybe those who wish to see it again... Petzl Roctrip from China 2011 is out!! Some amazing climbing in amazing countryside :-) Enjoy

TR- Mt Bogong Overnight

This weekend past a mate and I opted for a change of scenery. Foregoing the usual drive west to instead, traveling into the more mountainous regions to the east. The Alpine National Park makes up .... of Victoria and the highest of its peaks is Mount Bogong, colloquially known as "The Big Fella"

EVEREST!

A basic but well presented insight into the effects of high altitude climbing...

Yes, even the pros thrutch!!!!

Thrutch feast... Enough said....

TR: Spiegal's Overhang

For a number of reasons, the last few months have left me unable to find much time for 'real' rock climbing, so when I had a free day yesterday I jumped at the chance to get outdoors!

We headed for the Cathedral Ranges in Victoria, Australia. This mountain range juts out of the plains like a knife edge. Steep, jagged and wild, it is home to some of the best sandstone slabs in the east.

My buddy and I had decided on Spiegal's Overhang. A relatively easy route, it is considered one of the best slab/cracks (for the grade) in Victoria. VCC give it classic status!

Heavily laden with rack, ropes and food we made our approach. Access to the Jaw Bones is via a marginally defined track which weaves its way up the mountain across boulders, scree and mud. A new layer of undergrowth has lead to the uprising of a vast majority of prickly bushes, right at body height...

Alpine Climbing Documentary

Another morning coffee, another documentary.. Filmed by the IMAX team in 2007, this documentary describes John Harlin's journey as he and his team climb the “Eigernordwand” route. A climb which took his father 40 years earlier. Beautiful cinematography and just a little cheesey. Enjoy!!!

K2 Documentary

Whilst having my morning coffee I stumbled accross this YouTube upload. Not a bad little video. Enjoy!!!

Determinants of Climbing Performance

In 1993, a study performed by Watts and colleagues suggested that amoungst elite climbers there may be number of intrinsic physical attritbutes which substantiate their abilities. These included measurements such as the ape index; which is a ratio of a persons arm span relative to their height, arm and hand volumes, experience, age, height to weight ratio and a host of others. Whilst commonalities were found between the climbers, these climbers were already elite athletes and as a result, statistical inference pertaining to the prediction of their abilities was confounded...

Since then, a greater body of research has been developed. From this research has come three simple, yet highly trainable physical attributes as proponents of climbing ability:

• One: Maximal Grip Strength (3)
• Two: Low body fat percentage (3)
• Three: Climbing time to exhaustion (1) + re-oxygenation during rest phases (2)

So what does this mean?

Train your Calfs for Better Trad Climbing!

Picture this....


You've just pulled the first crux of a rather pumpy trad climb...  This is your onsight attempt and it should be within your reach. You find a reasonable stance bridging gently between the two walls. It's not great, you're on your toes, but its stable. For now... You remove the gear from your harness. "Damn" you think, as the first piece is too big. Try another... But now your calfs are starting to burn, lactate is building up, the pH of the muscle is starting to drop. This flusters you and you once again choose the wrong piece. Only exacerbating the problem your leg starts to shake. Then, then you're off....





Finish the story however you like, the moral is you blew your onsight. One could attribute any number of complex factors to causing this fall but ,put simply, if you could only last that little bit longer it would not have happened! So here is something easy you can do each day to help prevent such a situation. Train your calfs....

How?

• Calf raises, Monday-Friday, 3 sets, each with 10 reps and a 60 second recovery between sets
• HOWEVER: With each raise hold it at the top for 6 seconds before lowering down. This will help emulate the same stance often found whilst climbing.
• Add one second on to the time at the top of each stance weekly

Try it for 8 weeks and see how you go :-)

Training for Beginners: Part 1

A topic not so often addressed is "Training for Beginnners". Most commonly, the literature is centred around improving in the "upper grades". That is, those climbing at or above grade 24-25. To train at this level requires more then just dedication but tendons of steel only accumulated after years of climbing. Such programs are in no way suited to the beginner climber. Instead the newby is told "just go and do some climbing, you will get better". But what about the newby who is passionate and aspirational? The one who wants to climb the hard grades but get there in the quickest, most efficient and injury free way? The one who does not want to waste time? For those of you who fit this requisit, read on. This is what I would do if I had my time again:

1. Go and get some professional instruction: Head to your local climbing gym, do they have an introductory squad? Do they offer lessons or technique courses? Enrol in these. Practice what they teach you on easy climbs, perfecting each and every move from flagging, to back stepping, clipping and reading climbs. Developing a large body of moves is integral to making smooth ascents. If you can't afford to do this buy a book, or head to YouTube, there are many videos which describe a whole wealth of techniques.
2. Focus on your weaknesses: Being a strong all round climber requires an even balance of all styles and all moves. It's no good being the dyno king if you can't grip a crimp or hang from a sloper. Some of the best routes will have a mix of all these techniques, in order to "send" them you will need to be proficient in them all. Ask yourself, what am I good at? What am I bad at? Focus your sessions on your weaknesses, reward yourself with your strengths.
3. Engage in supplimentary training: Often over looked but vital to reduce the chance of injury in the long run. Optimise your body composition with aerobic exercise, core stability training and stretching. A gentle weight training program designed to balance out those 'unused' muscles will also go a very long way to improving your performance
4. Finally, fuel up like an athlete: Accept you are now a sports person and must eat, sleep and drink like one. A clean and nutritious diet, lots of sleep, plenty of rest days and limited alcohol consumption.

Follow these and you are sure to make significant progress.


Happy training!

Shoulder Stability: Exercises

In an article below titled "The Weight Training" I made reference to some rotator cuff exercises. If you do not have a back ground in anatomy/physiology you may not have an idea what I am actually talking about. The rotator cuffs help to stablise the shoulder by drawing the arm into the joint socket. Imbalances in these muscles may lead to impingment issues and inflammation.

The topic itself deserves a number of dedicated articles which I will write up soon. For now I have found a few videos which describe some appropriate exercises quite well. Enjoy!



The Pilates and The Stretch

As a strong advocate for core stability and it's applications in sport I recommend performing a simple pilates routine 4-6 times per week. Some yoga or stretching will also help to open up those tight muscles. I have found a number of YouTube videos to be helpful in this area and will post some links in below:

Aerobic Conditioning and Climbing

Rock climbing is not predmoninatly and aerobic based sport and as a result a high level of cardiovascular fitness is not really required. Furthermore, adding intense cardiovascular conditioning to your work outs will create another stimulus from which your body must recover. This ultimately leaves less time to actually climb, and, if you do, creates a greater chance of injury... With that being said, there are two particular situations where cardiovascular condition stands out as being important.

One, if your goal is long alpine style routes, requiring extended periods of scrambling or walking

Two, if you are in sub optimal physical condition. That is, those carrying a bit of extra body fat. If you fit into this catagory and are relatively new to rock climbing then climbing more than 3 days per week may not be an option (increased injury risk). Low to moderate level aerobic activity on your off days will help burn the extra calories required to lose the excess weight.

If you are still asking "please, can I go for a run" then some light, conversational pace exercise shouldn't hurt your training too much. Just keep these short and only a few times per week.

Happy climbing :-)

Hugh

Weight Training and Rock Climbing

When ever weight training is mentioned in climbing circles heated arguments relating to it's effectiveness erupt. Unfortunately, this is generally due to a missunderstanding of how to effectively use weight (resistance) training.

Unless your primary sport is weight training (which as a climber it is not) it should only be used as a supplement. Supplements are merely added to our normal program, they do not detract from it. Any "supplemental" program should therefore be "easy" enough for us to recover adequately after and not detract from getting as many climbing miles in as possible.

The focus then becomes on giving our body and mind a little break from the rigours of intense climbing. It gives us time to balance our those muscles that are underused (such as forearm extensors) and isolate the small stabilisors which if left unchecked may lead to injury. 

A supplemental program should therefore include:

1. Strength work of opposing muscle groups (muscles not used in climbing)
2. Stability training of major joints (wrists, shoulders, core, hips)

Keep the resistance of each exercise low and the repetitions high (15-25). This will develop the muscle to prevent injury but not damage it so that you may feel to "under-recovered" for your next climbing session.

Will post more on this soon

Happy climbing :-)

Hugh