You've just pulled the first crux of a rather pumpy trad climb... This is your onsight attempt and it should be within your reach. You find a reasonable stance bridging gently between the two walls. It's not great, you're on your toes, but its stable. For now... You remove the gear from your harness. "Damn" you think, as the first piece is too big. Try another... But now your calfs are starting to burn, lactate is building up, the pH of the muscle is starting to drop. This flusters you and you once again choose the wrong piece. Only exacerbating the problem your leg starts to shake. Then, then you're off....
Finish the story however you like, the moral is you blew your onsight. One could attribute any number of complex factors to causing this fall but ,put simply, if you could only last that little bit longer it would not have happened! So here is something easy you can do each day to help prevent such a situation. Train your calfs....
How?
- Calf raises, Monday-Friday, 3 sets, each with 10 reps and a 60 second recovery between sets
- HOWEVER: With each raise hold it at the top for 6 seconds before lowering down. This will help emulate the same stance often found whilst climbing.
- Add one second on to the time at the top of each stance weekly
No comments:
Post a Comment