Weight Training and Rock Climbing

When ever weight training is mentioned in climbing circles heated arguments relating to it's effectiveness erupt. Unfortunately, this is generally due to a missunderstanding of how to effectively use weight (resistance) training.

Unless your primary sport is weight training (which as a climber it is not) it should only be used as a supplement. Supplements are merely added to our normal program, they do not detract from it. Any "supplemental" program should therefore be "easy" enough for us to recover adequately after and not detract from getting as many climbing miles in as possible.

The focus then becomes on giving our body and mind a little break from the rigours of intense climbing. It gives us time to balance our those muscles that are underused (such as forearm extensors) and isolate the small stabilisors which if left unchecked may lead to injury. 

A supplemental program should therefore include:

1. Strength work of opposing muscle groups (muscles not used in climbing)
2. Stability training of major joints (wrists, shoulders, core, hips)

Keep the resistance of each exercise low and the repetitions high (15-25). This will develop the muscle to prevent injury but not damage it so that you may feel to "under-recovered" for your next climbing session.

Will post more on this soon

Happy climbing :-)

Hugh