Climb Like Chris Sharma....Let Go!!

The video below is the second in a series produced by Rock and Ice in collaboration with Chris Sharma. Chris is known for pushing the limits of sport climbing to grades previously thought impossible, and I might add, from a very young age.

He is also famously known for saying "climbing is all mental". Whilst there might be some jest in there, for the most part, it really does ring true. Imagine if you could climb entirely without fear? Or perhaps irrational fear? How far could you push your limit??

A common approach to climbing is that to pull each move one requires a certain degree of strength. That strength gives confirmation of our ability to do the move. We are looking for security... However, climbing at your ABSOLUTE limit requires much more than that. It is not secure, it is not definite, you are completely in the dark as to whether or not you will pull the move.

Letting go of our fears and apprehensions is the ONLY way to get the most out of your current physical state. Do you want to get stronger or do you want to get better?

Enjoy and happy climbing :-)

Climb Like Chris Sharma: Limits and Fears from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.

Increasing Time Until Fatigue - Part 1

Exercise Order Matters!!!

It has been well documented that large, compound movements, involving multiple muscles over a number of joints stimulate the release of growth hormones acutely (ie dead lifts). Conversely, isolated movements, involving small muscles across a single joint (such as the bicep curl) have very little effect on growth hormone release. The practical relevance of this observation is that large compound movements performed prior to isolated movements will result in far greater growth and development of the isolated muscle; eg bicep.


In rock climbing, the number one predictor of climbing performance is time until fatigue. That is, the time taken for the forearm muscles to become fully fatigued and unable to grasp the holds. Technique, body fat percentage, age, nutritional status, anthropometric measurements etc all play factors in this equation, however, all factors the same, time until fatigue is the number one determinant.

Therefore, increasing the time until fatigue will, assuming all factors are the same, have greatest effect on your climbing ability…

Increasing Time Until Fatigue - Overview

In a previous article, which can be found HERE I made mention to the determinants of climbing performance. It was determined that whilst climbing was an increadibly complex sport, time until fatigue was the only true predictor of climbing performance. That is not to say that it is not appropriate to train other facets of your climbing, in fact the opposite was true, but, keeping all things equal, time until fatigue is the only true predictor of ability.

In following with the theme I have decided to produce a series of articles which focus predmoninantly on increasing time until fatigue...

Part one can be found HERE

Park Life - Bouldering in Yosemite

Whilst browsing Vimeo this afternoon I stumbled across this video titled "Park Life - Bouldering in Yosemite". A Louder Than Eleven Production it documents the journey of nine climbers who spend two weeks in bouldering the granite of the valley. Whilst the concept is a little cliche it is beautifully composed and well worth taking 30 minutes out of your day. I'll leave the jibber jabber to the climbers and let you get on to watching

Happy climbing :-)

Park Life - Yosemite Bouldering from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.

The El Cap Challenge for 2012!!!

I know, I know. I hear what you’re saying. You can hardly believe it! The opportunity to do it all over again, or the chance to do it for the first time cos you were slow off the blocks last year!




El Cap Challenge Returns!

30th November, 2012, Bayside Rock

More details soon but start preparing your teams and your costumes now.

http://www.elcapchallenge.com/

Climbing inspired costumes are almost compulsory – besides there will be great prizes for the best dressed! Why wouldn’t you? Your chance to be Royal Robbins or Alex Honnold for just once!

Funds raised go to CliffCare Victoria