Determinants of Climbing Performance

In 1993, a study performed by Watts and colleagues suggested that amoungst elite climbers there may be number of intrinsic physical attritbutes which substantiate their abilities. These included measurements such as the ape index; which is a ratio of a persons arm span relative to their height, arm and hand volumes, experience, age, height to weight ratio and a host of others. Whilst commonalities were found between the climbers, these climbers were already elite athletes and as a result, statistical inference pertaining to the prediction of their abilities was confounded...

Since then, a greater body of research has been developed. From this research has come three simple, yet highly trainable physical attributes as proponents of climbing ability:

• One: Maximal Grip Strength (3)
• Two: Low body fat percentage (3)
• Three: Climbing time to exhaustion (1) + re-oxygenation during rest phases (2)

So what does this mean?

Train your Calfs for Better Trad Climbing!

Picture this....


You've just pulled the first crux of a rather pumpy trad climb...  This is your onsight attempt and it should be within your reach. You find a reasonable stance bridging gently between the two walls. It's not great, you're on your toes, but its stable. For now... You remove the gear from your harness. "Damn" you think, as the first piece is too big. Try another... But now your calfs are starting to burn, lactate is building up, the pH of the muscle is starting to drop. This flusters you and you once again choose the wrong piece. Only exacerbating the problem your leg starts to shake. Then, then you're off....





Finish the story however you like, the moral is you blew your onsight. One could attribute any number of complex factors to causing this fall but ,put simply, if you could only last that little bit longer it would not have happened! So here is something easy you can do each day to help prevent such a situation. Train your calfs....

How?

• Calf raises, Monday-Friday, 3 sets, each with 10 reps and a 60 second recovery between sets
• HOWEVER: With each raise hold it at the top for 6 seconds before lowering down. This will help emulate the same stance often found whilst climbing.
• Add one second on to the time at the top of each stance weekly

Try it for 8 weeks and see how you go :-)

Training for Beginners: Part 1

A topic not so often addressed is "Training for Beginnners". Most commonly, the literature is centred around improving in the "upper grades". That is, those climbing at or above grade 24-25. To train at this level requires more then just dedication but tendons of steel only accumulated after years of climbing. Such programs are in no way suited to the beginner climber. Instead the newby is told "just go and do some climbing, you will get better". But what about the newby who is passionate and aspirational? The one who wants to climb the hard grades but get there in the quickest, most efficient and injury free way? The one who does not want to waste time? For those of you who fit this requisit, read on. This is what I would do if I had my time again:

1. Go and get some professional instruction: Head to your local climbing gym, do they have an introductory squad? Do they offer lessons or technique courses? Enrol in these. Practice what they teach you on easy climbs, perfecting each and every move from flagging, to back stepping, clipping and reading climbs. Developing a large body of moves is integral to making smooth ascents. If you can't afford to do this buy a book, or head to YouTube, there are many videos which describe a whole wealth of techniques.
2. Focus on your weaknesses: Being a strong all round climber requires an even balance of all styles and all moves. It's no good being the dyno king if you can't grip a crimp or hang from a sloper. Some of the best routes will have a mix of all these techniques, in order to "send" them you will need to be proficient in them all. Ask yourself, what am I good at? What am I bad at? Focus your sessions on your weaknesses, reward yourself with your strengths.
3. Engage in supplimentary training: Often over looked but vital to reduce the chance of injury in the long run. Optimise your body composition with aerobic exercise, core stability training and stretching. A gentle weight training program designed to balance out those 'unused' muscles will also go a very long way to improving your performance
4. Finally, fuel up like an athlete: Accept you are now a sports person and must eat, sleep and drink like one. A clean and nutritious diet, lots of sleep, plenty of rest days and limited alcohol consumption.

Follow these and you are sure to make significant progress.


Happy training!